| The core of the boiler is made from simple wood blocks, glued in layers until a block larger than the boiler is achieved. Cut the block into an octagon for easier turning, then put it on a lathe and turn it the size and shape required. Remember to allow for the thickness of the mahogany planking that will be added later. |  |
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Cut a
10mm wide slot in the bottom of the boiler block and adjust the fit until the
block sits at the correct height and angle over the keelson and F7.
Note here the 'sub deck' for the engine. This and all lower parts of the inside of the hull can be painted matt black. |
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Using
6x3mm mahogany strips, plank the upper and lower sections of the boiler block
vertically.
When dry, put the block back on the lathe and refinish. Depending on the thickness of the brass strip you have for the two brass bands, you may need to turn slight recesses for them so it looks correct when fitted.
Fashion the upper and lower brass bands as accurately as possible from brass strip, then glue them in place with UHU. I used a jar opener to keep them perfectly circular while the glue dried. Drill three holes in the correct positions for steam pipes that will be fitted later, and with a Dremel enlarge them neatly until they are large enough to accommodate 4mm nuts. Finish the structure with aerosol varnish. |
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Using 1mm brass sheet, turn the top plate for the boiler, being careful to get the inner and outer diameters correct. The hole is for the copper dome (see below). You can now glue the boiler into the hull, taking care to get the top at exactly the right height and level.
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The
copper dome is one of the hardest parts of the model to make. Trace the
elevation of the dome from the plans and use this shape to turn a wooden former
which will be the inside shape of the copper dome. Remember the lower edge of
the dome has to fit snugly into the hole in the brass disk. Fix an annealed 0.5mm copper disk onto this former so it can't rotate against it (I used three closely spaced screws). Copper spinning is too complicated to describe here so please refer to YouTube for the technique. I found that the process work-hardens the copper; if so, remove the disk, anneal it again and continue spinning until the correct dome shape is achieved. Polish it on the lathe and then trim the lower edge flat on a disk sander by reversing it onto a block of wood. When satisfied, glue the dome onto the boiler. It should just fit inside the hole in the brass disk. The funnel is best left to the end because it's very likely to get knocked off accidentally! |
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