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Cut a piece of 2mm ply to make the 'sub deck'. This will take the engine later. Paint it matt black and glue it in place on the lowest parts of F5 and F6. Also paint matt black any part of the inside of the hull planking that might show later.
Carefully cut away the thin side parts of F5 and F6 with a Dremel or similar, leaving just a planked wall. Add one lime plank inside each gunwale, flush with the top edge, between F4 and F7 and vertical strips just forward of F7 (see second photo). These will support the inner vertical planking later.
Using the plan as a guide, cut a piece of 2mm ply to shape until it sits neatly on the deck supports in F5 and F6, with the edges just touching the hull sides. Add a curved former at the front; this must match the curve in the forward deck above as it will support the vertical wall planks later. Then remove the deck, plank it with mahogany planks, finish it with satin aerosol varnish and glue it in place. |
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With reference to the provided cross-section of F9, fabricate both cabin doors from pear sheet and strip. The handles are made from brass strip and brass spheres with a flat filed on. Note that the forward door is shorter than the aft door; when judging the height of each door be careful to allow for the hatchways above or you'll have to make them again! Finish both doors with satin aerosol varnish.
Glue the forward door in place and get ready to start the wall planks. These are 6x1.5mm lime strips with the sides slightly rounded. Cut them as accurately as you can to save too much trimming to size later. Start from each side of the door and work back to F7, ensuring that they stay vertical. If they risk starting to lean, taper a few very lightly to bring them back to vertical.
For my model I added a small staircase on the starboard side of the boiler so that the imaginary occupants could get from one end of the boat to the other!
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